Upgrading a Coat – How I sew black details on an already sewn coat

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

On the left is a coat I sew for myself, a few years ago. On the right is its upgraded version.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

To make it, I used a McCalls pattern, an old jeans dress (from the 1990’s) and an old pair of jeans.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

Here, you can see that the jeans from the dress (main fabric) and the jeans from the pants (sides and underarms) are not the same. The thickness is slightly different, but not enough to cause problems.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

I always cut the pockets last. I had to incorporate seams in order to respect the size of the pockets.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

I used the front of the dress, who had lots of metal buttons, for the centre front panels. How can I pass by those, as well as the already-made buttonholes?

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

I lined the coat with black polyester lining fabric. It hides the seams and gives the coat a tailored look.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

I sew the lining by hand, as you can see in this picture.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

As I was using panels already sewn, I had to be creative when came the time to finish the top of the centre front panels. I stitched the folded edges by hand.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

Here starts the work I made a few weeks ago. I chose a black polyester fabric to upgrade my coat–an old maxi skirt (also from the 1990s)!

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

The coat being already sewn, with a lining, I could not add the black fabric with my sewing machine without removing pieces. I wanted to avoid that.  Therefore, I sew everything by hand.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

Tiny little stitches that almost disappear from view. One has to know what to look for to find them. 🙂

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

I attached the cuff pieces directly to the lining. You can see a line of stitches where I went through all the layers when I sew the top of the cuff. I don’t worry about them as they’re inside the arm. No one will see them.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

The collar was a little bit more tricky. But with pins and patience, it was manageable. On a side note, when hand stitching jeans, you need a good thimble.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

Going around the corner…

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

After having done the extern edges of the collar, stitching the inside was a piece of cake.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

Cuffs and pockets done.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

Collar done.

Upgrading a coat - francenadeau.com

I love my new coat. Casual with attitude!

France

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